Just my opinion.... and why the EP 2.0 is designed around the KISS method of annealing. Having a hopper doesn't make any flame based annealer faster when it comes to annealing. It is just a hopper you need to fill. If it takes for example 5 seconds to anneal XYZ brass, it stil takes 5 seconds. By the time i swap out parts and fill a hopper, im already into annealing with the EP 2.0 annealer. If you think about it, if you need to pick up the brass, orientate the brass in the right direction, regardless if you're feeding a hopper or single feed fence, you're still feeding the machine. Regardless, when it comes to flame based annealers, it's not like you can just walk away and go mow the yard while the machine is running with an open flame. You still need to watch the process. Also, it's nice to have control of the feeding from time to time just in case you need to make small changes. It takes approx 5 to 6 seconds on average per anneal = only 10min per 100pcs which is a drop in the reloading process bucket. BIG DIFFERENCE between a hopper and a case feeder... if you can make a case feeder where you csn throw handfuls of brass into the machine and the machine does all the work (unlike a hopper), and can adjust from 5.7x28 to 50bmg (very hard) = woule be expensive = then give me a call and we can do business.... Also, we do not mount the torch head for a reason, it is fast and really when going from casing size to different casing size = doesn't need to be mounted when using blue and green tanks. I have had soooooo many people email me after they have used the EP 2.0 annealer for some time saying, "I thought I needed a hopper, and after using the EP 2.0 for some time now, I realize it doesn't matter. Especially when annealing 200pcs or less"....

That is wonderful!!! Fantastic!!

We are 100% here to help! Check out this video too: https://youtu.be/0b7bdQ5tySs?si=jz06H1cOQSPpjY9r

I like to get the hotter blue inner Corona flame tip just barely touching the brass but not touching & for smaller brass you might want to decrease the length of the flame while either increasing or decreasing the speed as needed for the shorter flame length if using the glow method. Let the glow tell you when it needs to come out of the flame, not the LED display. I like to use the lights dimmed down quite a bit and when the neck and start of the shoulder starts to glow (not super red hot but glowing) then get it timed right to get it out of the flame. I'll use "test" brass to get the timer and flame location set just right before starting in with my actual brass.

Thank you! Much appreciated!! ❤️💪❤️

Awesome! Thanks for the information!!

I'd watch this entire video in detail. It will answer all of your questions https://youtu.be/0b7bdQ5tySs

That looks really good actually! Anneal mark is roughly 1/4" down the body of the brass. Fantastic! 👍